How to grow brussels sprouts
Overview
Brussels sprouts is a cool-season brassica grown for its compact, edible buds that form along the main stalk. It requires a long, cool growing season and rewards patience with a bountiful harvest.
Varieties
- Long Island Improved — A classic heirloom variety reliable in Australian gardens, producing firm sprouts over a long season.
- Diablo — A high-yielding F1 hybrid with dark green, uniform sprouts and good disease resistance.
- Oliver — Early maturing hybrid suited to warmer areas; produces consistent sprouts on a compact plant.
- Pillar F1 — Tall, strong stem with dense sprout production; ideal for cool and temperate zones.
- Trafalgar — A robust variety with excellent cold tolerance and uniform button-sized sprouts.
- Bosworth — Popular in New Zealand, this early hybrid produces sweet, tight sprouts on a short plant.
Soil Preparation
Brussels sprouts prefer well-drained, fertile soil with pH 6.0-7.0. Work in plenty of well-rotted compost or manure before planting. Ensure soil is firm around roots to support the tall stems.
Growing Guide
Plant brussels sprouts in full sun in fertile, well-drained soil. Sow seeds 1cm deep in trays or directly in the garden. Space seedlings 30-45cm apart in rows 60cm apart. Keep soil consistently moist, especially during hot spells. Mulch to retain moisture and keep roots cool. Firm the soil around seedlings to support tall stems.
Sowing
Sow seeds 1cm deep in seed trays or directly in the garden. Germination takes 5-10 days. Transplant seedlings when they have 4-6 true leaves, spacing 30-45cm apart.
Care
Feed every 2-3 weeks with a balanced liquid fertiliser during active growth. Remove yellowing lower leaves to improve airflow and direct energy to sprout development. Stake tall plants in windy positions to prevent lodging.
Companion Planting
Good companions include beets, celery, onions, peas, and potatoes. Avoid planting other brassicas, strawberries, or tomatoes nearby. Dill and mint can help repel pests.
Common Pests & Risks
Cabbage white butterfly caterpillars are a major pest; use netting or Bt spray. Aphids can be washed off or treated with insecticidal soap. Diamondback moth larvae attack the underside of leaves; check regularly and use appropriate organic controls if needed. Slugs and snails may also damage young plants.
Harvesting
Harvest sprouts from the bottom upwards when they are firm and 2-3cm in diameter. Twist or cut them off the stem, and remove the leaf above to encourage further sprout development. Continue harvesting as lower sprouts mature; sprouts can remain on the plant for several weeks.
In the Kitchen
Harvested sprouts store for up to 2 weeks in the fridge. Frost improves their sweetness; roast, steam, or stir-fry. Avoid overcooking which can make them bitter.
Troubleshooting
Loose or button sprouts: caused by insufficient fertility or overcrowding. Yellow lower leaves: natural as plants mature, but excessive yellowing may indicate nitrogen deficiency. Stunted growth: possible clubroot disease; improve drainage and rotate brassica crops. Bolting: exposure to heat or drought; plant at correct time. Sprouts not forming: poor soil, late planting, or lack of sunlight.