How to grow cherry laurel
Overview
Cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) is a dense, fast-growing evergreen shrub from the Rosaceae family, valued for its large, glossy leaves and ability to form a solid hedge or screen. It provides year-round structure and texture in the garden, linking bolder feature plants. A key consideration is its vigorous growth — it needs regular clipping to maintain shape and size.
Varieties
- Prunus laurocerasus 'Rotundifolia' — The most common form in Australian nurseries, with broad, rounded leaves and a dense, upright habit ideal for hedging.
- Prunus laurocerasus 'Otto Luyken' — A compact, low-growing variety reaching 1–1.5 m, suitable for smaller gardens or as a foundation plant.
- Prunus laurocerasus 'Schipkaensis' — A narrow, columnar selection that works well for tight spaces or as a tall screen.
Soil Preparation
Cherry laurel prefers a deep, well-drained loam with a pH between 6.0 and 7.5. It tolerates clay if amended with gypsum and organic matter to improve drainage. Before planting, work in 2–3 kg of compost or aged manure per square metre to boost fertility and moisture retention.
Growing Guide
Plant cherry laurel in a position with bright, indirect light or morning sun, avoiding harsh afternoon heat. Space specimens 1–1.5 m apart for a dense hedge, or 2–3 m for individual shrubs. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and backfill with well-drained soil enriched with organic matter. Water deeply after planting and keep the soil consistently moist for the first two growing seasons. Apply a 5–7 cm layer of mulch around the root zone, keeping it clear of the trunk, to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Sowing
Cherry laurel is rarely grown from seed in home gardens; it is almost always propagated from semi-hardwood cuttings taken in late summer or from purchased container plants. Seeds require cold stratification and are slow to germinate, so direct sowing is not recommended.
Care
Feed cherry laurel in early spring with a balanced slow-release fertiliser (e.g., 10-10-10) at the rate recommended for shrubs. Prune in late winter to early spring, removing up to one-third of the oldest stems to encourage dense growth, and shape the plant to the desired height and width. Apply a 5 cm layer of well-rotted compost or bark mulch in autumn to protect roots and enrich the soil.
Companion Planting
Cherry laurel pairs well with other shade-tolerant evergreens such as Viburnum, Pittosporum, and Camellia for a layered hedge. Avoid planting near shallow-rooted annuals that may be outcompeted for moisture, and keep it away from areas where fallen leaves could smother smaller groundcovers like Liriope.
Common Pests & Risks
Shot-hole aphid causes small, round holes in leaves and distorted new growth; control with a horticultural oil spray in early spring. Scale insects appear as brown bumps on stems and leaves, often leading to sooty mould; treat with a systemic insecticide or prune out infested branches. Both pests are more common in stressed or over-dense plants, so maintain good airflow and regular pruning.
Troubleshooting
Yellowing leaves with green veins: often indicates iron deficiency in alkaline or waterlogged soil — apply iron chelate and improve drainage. Brown leaf edges and tip burn: usually from salt buildup or dry conditions — flush soil with water and increase mulch depth. Sparse growth at the base: caused by insufficient light or over-pruning — thin surrounding plants and reduce pruning intensity. Sudden leaf drop: may follow a hard frost or drought — check soil moisture and protect with frost cloth in cold snaps. Stunted new growth: often due to scale or aphid infestation — inspect for pests and treat with horticultural oil.