How to grow cyclamen
Overview
Cyclamen persicum is a tuberous perennial grown for its elegant, swept-back flowers and marbled or patterned heart-shaped leaves. It flowers through autumn and winter, then enters a natural summer dormancy. The key to success is letting the tuber rest dry in warm months and resuming watering as nights cool.
Varieties
- Cyclamen persicum 'Sierra' — Compact series with large flowers in pink, white, red, and salmon; excellent for pots.
- Cyclamen persicum 'Halios' — Early-flowering, vigorous series with silver-marked leaves; good for subtropical autumn starts.
- Cyclamen persicum 'Laser' — F1 hybrid with very uniform flowering and strong heat tolerance; popular in Australian nurseries.
Soil Preparation
Cyclamen needs a slightly acidic (pH 6.0–6.5), very well-drained soil. Amend heavy clay with coarse sand and fine bark. For pots, use a mix of 2 parts quality potting mix, 1 part perlite, and 1 part compost. Ensure the pot has multiple drainage holes.
Growing Guide
Plant cyclamen tubers with the top (concave side) just above the soil surface, 10–15 cm apart in pots or shaded garden beds. Use a very free-draining mix of loam, coarse sand, and compost. Water deeply when the top 2 cm of soil dries, but never let the pot sit in a saucer of water. In autumn, start watering as new growth appears; in late spring, taper off completely as leaves yellow. Avoid disturbing the tuber during dormancy.
Care
Feed cyclamen with a balanced liquid fertiliser (e.g. 10-10-10) every 2–3 weeks from when leaves appear until flowering finishes. Remove spent flowers and yellowing leaves promptly to prevent rot and encourage more blooms. Do not cut back green leaves; let them die down naturally to recharge the tuber.
Companion Planting
Cyclamen pairs well with ferns, hellebores, and winter-flowering pansies in shaded beds. Avoid planting near vigorous groundcovers like mondo grass that compete for moisture, or near plants that need summer water (e.g. impatiens) as cyclamen must stay dry in summer.
Common Pests & Risks
Cyclamen mites cause distorted, stunted growth and curled leaf edges; treat with a miticide at first sign. Aphids cluster on new buds and can be washed off with a strong spray. Tuber rot (often Fusarium or Rhizoctonia) appears as soft, sunken spots; prevent by never overwatering and using fresh, sterile potting mix.
Harvesting
Harvest not relevant.
Troubleshooting
Yellow leaves in spring: natural dormancy, stop watering. Yellow leaves in autumn: overwatering or tuber rot, check drainage. Brown leaf edges: dry air or inconsistent watering, increase humidity. Stunted flowers: cyclamen mites, treat with miticide. Soft tuber: rot from wet soil, discard and improve drainage. No flowers: tuber planted too deep or too much nitrogen, top of tuber must be exposed.