How to grow garlic
Overview
Garlic (Allium sativum) is a bulbous vegetable from the Amaryllidaceae family, grown for its pungent cloves used in cooking. It is a cool-season crop that requires a period of cold to initiate bulb formation, making autumn planting essential in most Australian climates.
Varieties
- Italian White — A classic softneck variety with large, mild-flavoured cloves, reliable in temperate and subtropical zones.
- Purple Stripe — A hardneck type with purple-streaked skin and a strong, spicy flavour, ideal for cool climates.
- Chesnok Red — A hardneck variety from Russia, known for its rich, nutty taste when roasted, and good cold tolerance.
- Glenlarge — An Australian-bred softneck with large bulbs and excellent storage life, suited to Mediterranean and temperate zones.
Soil Preparation
Garlic prefers well-drained, loamy soil with a pH of 6.0–7.0. Enrich with well-rotted compost or aged manure before planting. Avoid heavy clay soils that cause waterlogging and bulb rot.
Growing Guide
Plant garlic cloves pointy-end up, 5 cm deep and 10–15 cm apart, in rows 30 cm apart. Choose a sunny, well-drained position with rich, loose soil. Water regularly but avoid waterlogging. In cooler zones, plant in autumn for a summer harvest; in subtropical areas, plant in late autumn to avoid heat. Mulch heavily to suppress weeds and retain moisture.
Care
Feed garlic with a balanced fertiliser (e.g., 10-10-10) at planting and again in early spring. Remove flower stalks (scapes) as they appear to direct energy into bulb growth. Keep the area weed-free to reduce competition.
Companion Planting
Garlic benefits from being planted near roses (deters aphids), carrots (confuses carrot fly), and tomatoes (repels spider mites). Avoid planting near beans, peas, and other legumes, as garlic can inhibit their growth.
Common Pests & Risks
Common pests include thrips (small insects causing silvery leaves) and nematodes (stunted growth). Diseases like rust (orange pustules on leaves) and white rot (yellowing, rotting bulbs) can occur. Control thrips with insecticidal soap or neem oil; avoid overwatering to reduce rust; practice crop rotation to prevent white rot.
Harvesting
Harvest garlic when the lower leaves turn brown and begin to die back, typically 8–10 months after planting. Lift bulbs carefully with a fork, then cure in a dry, airy place for 2–3 weeks before storing. Do not wash before curing.
In the Kitchen
Garlic is used fresh or cured in cooking, from sauces to roasts. Store bulbs in a cool, dark, dry place for up to 6 months. Crush or chop cloves to release flavour; roasting mellows the pungency.
Troubleshooting
Yellow leaves: overwatering or poor drainage—reduce water and improve soil. Brown leaf tips: underwatering or nutrient deficiency—water more and feed with balanced fertiliser. Small bulbs: planted too late or overcrowded—plant in autumn and space 10–15 cm apart. Rust: orange spots on leaves—remove affected leaves and improve air circulation. White rot: yellowing, dying plants—remove and destroy; avoid planting in same spot for 5 years.