How to grow lomandra
Overview
Lomandra longifolia is a clumping, strappy-leaved perennial shrub from the Asparagaceae family, valued for its architectural texture and drought tolerance. It is commonly used in Australian gardens as a low-maintenance filler or border plant, linking bolder feature plants with its consistent form.
Varieties
- Lomandra longifolia 'Tanika' — Compact, fine-leafed form ideal for borders and low hedges in Australian gardens.
- Lomandra longifolia 'Katie Belles' — Dwarf variety with blue-green foliage, reaching 30 cm, perfect for small spaces.
- Lomandra longifolia 'Lime Tuff' — Bright lime-green foliage, grows to 50 cm, excellent for contrast in mass plantings.
Soil Preparation
Prefers slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.0–7.0) with good drainage. Amend sandy soils with composted organic matter; for clay, add gypsum and coarse sand. Avoid waterlogged conditions — raise beds if needed.
Growing Guide
Plant in full sun in well-drained soil; space clumps 40–60 cm apart. Dig a hole twice the width of the root ball, backfill with native soil, and water in well. For mass planting, use 5–7 plants per square metre. Avoid planting in heavy clay unless raised beds are used. Lomandra is slow to establish but once rooted, it requires little intervention.
Sowing
Sow seed 3–5 mm deep in seed-raising mix, keep moist at 20–25°C. Germination takes 3–6 weeks. Direct sow in spring or start in pots; transplant when 10 cm tall. Not commonly grown from seed — division is easier.
Care
Feed with a slow-release native fertiliser (e.g., 8–9 month formula) in early spring. Cut back old foliage to 15 cm in late winter to refresh growth and maintain shape. Remove spent flower stems after flowering to keep the plant tidy.
Companion Planting
Pair with other native strappy plants like Dianella, Poa labillardieri, or Anigozanthos for a cohesive texture. Avoid planting near vigorous groundcovers like Lantana or invasive grasses that may outcompete lomandra for space.
Common Pests & Risks
Lomandra is generally pest-free but may occasionally attract scale insects or mealybugs on older foliage. Treat with a horticultural oil spray in early spring. Snails and slugs can damage new shoots in wet seasons; control with iron-based baits.
Harvesting
Harvest not relevant.
Troubleshooting
Yellow leaves: often from overwatering or poor drainage — reduce water and improve soil. Brown leaf tips: caused by dry air or salt buildup — flush soil with water. Sparse growth: too much shade — move to full sun. Leaf spots: fungal in humid conditions — remove affected leaves and improve air flow. Stunted clumps: may need division every 3–4 years.