How to grow mat rush
Overview
Mat rush (Lomandra hystrix) is a clumping, strappy perennial grass from the Asparagaceae family, valued for its graceful, arching foliage and ability to add movement and texture to garden beds. It is a key plant for erosion control on moist, shaded slopes and thrives in part-shade with consistent moisture.
Varieties
- Lomandra hystrix 'Tropic Cascade' — Compact, weeping form ideal for small gardens and pots.
- Lomandra hystrix 'Katie Belles' — Dwarf variety with fine, blue-green foliage, excellent for groundcover.
Soil Preparation
Prefers slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.0–7.0). Enrich with compost or aged manure before planting; improve drainage on heavy clay by adding gypsum or coarse sand. Mulch with bark to retain moisture.
Growing Guide
Plant mat rush in part-shade to full shade, avoiding hot afternoon sun in warmer zones. Space clumps 60–80 cm apart for a dense groundcover. Prepare soil with well-rotted organic matter and ensure good drainage; it tolerates clay but not waterlogging. Water regularly during establishment, then reduce to weekly in temperate zones. For erosion control, plant on contours or use a staggered grid.
Sowing
Sow seed 5 mm deep in seed-raising mix, keep moist and warm (20–25°C). Germination takes 3–6 weeks. Direct sow in spring or early summer; transplant seedlings at 2–3 true leaves. Best results from division of established clumps.
Care
Feed with a slow-release native fertiliser in early spring. Prune back old, tattered leaves to 10 cm in late winter to encourage fresh growth. No heavy maintenance needed; just remove spent flower stems after they dry.
Companion Planting
Pair mat rush with other moisture-lovers like ferns (e.g., Blechnum), liriope, and native violets (Viola banksii). Avoid planting near aggressive grasses like kikuyu or buffalo, which can smother it. It also works well under deciduous trees like crepe myrtle.
Common Pests & Risks
Mat rush is largely pest-free but may attract scale insects or mealybugs in humid conditions. Treat with a horticultural oil spray or introduce beneficial insects. Slugs and snails can damage new shoots; control with iron-based baits.
Troubleshooting
Yellow leaves: overwatering or poor drainage; reduce watering and check soil. Brown leaf tips: dry air or salt burn; increase humidity or flush soil. Stunted growth: heavy shade or compacted soil; move to brighter spot or aerate. Leaf spots: fungal infection in wet weather; improve air circulation and remove affected leaves.