How to grow olive
Overview
Olive (Olea europaea) is a long-lived fruit tree prized for its oil and table fruit. It thrives in dry-summer climates with full sun and excellent drainage, and requires patience as it takes several years to bear well.
Varieties
- Kalamata — A classic Greek table olive with dark purple fruit, suited to temperate and Mediterranean zones.
- Manzanillo — A Spanish variety popular for oil and brining, productive in warm climates.
- Frantoio — An Italian oil variety with high yield and good disease resistance, ideal for home growers.
- Picholine — A French green olive for brining, vigorous and cold-tolerant in cooler areas.
Soil Preparation
Olives prefer slightly alkaline to neutral soil (pH 6.5–8.0) with excellent drainage. Add lime if acidic, and incorporate coarse sand or gravel to improve drainage. Avoid heavy clay unless mounded or raised.
Growing Guide
Plant olives in a warm, sheltered spot with full sun and free-draining soil. Space standard trees 5–7 m apart; dwarf varieties suit 3–4 m. Dig a hole twice the rootball width, backfill with compost, and water in well. Avoid overwatering after establishment—olives are drought-tolerant once rooted. Mulch with gravel or coarse bark to suppress weeds and keep the trunk dry.
Care
Feed olives with a balanced slow-release fertiliser (e.g., 8-4-6) in early spring and again after harvest. Prune in late winter to remove crossing branches and open the canopy; tip-prune young trees to encourage branching. Keep mulch clear of the trunk to prevent collar rot.
Companion Planting
Underplant with lavender, rosemary, or thyme to repel pests and add ground cover. Avoid planting near vigorous trees like eucalypts or citrus that compete for water and nutrients.
Common Pests & Risks
Olive lace bug causes stippled leaves; spray with horticultural oil in spring. Scale insects appear as waxy bumps; treat with white oil or introduce parasitic wasps. Fungal diseases like peacock spot and verticillium wilt are managed by pruning for airflow and avoiding waterlogged soil.
Harvesting
Harvest olives when they change from green to purple-black for oil, or pick green for brining. Fruit should be firm but not hard; use a net or hand-pick to avoid bruising. Olives need curing (brine or lye) before eating—fresh fruit is inedible.
In the Kitchen
Cured olives can be stored in brine or oil for months. Use green olives in tapenades or salads; black olives are richer for oil. Roast with garlic and herbs for a simple antipasto.
Troubleshooting
Yellow leaves: overwatering or poor drainage—reduce water and improve soil. Brown leaf edges: salt stress from fertiliser or coastal wind—flush soil and shelter. Fruit drop: lack of pollination or water stress—ensure good airflow and consistent moisture. Black spots on fruit: olive fly—use traps or netting. Stunted growth: nutrient deficiency—apply balanced fertiliser in spring.