How to grow potato
Overview
Potato (Solanum tuberosum) is a starchy tuber crop grown as an annual for its edible underground stems. It requires full sun, consistent moisture, and regular hilling to maximise yield. Green tubers and foliage contain solanine and are toxic.
Varieties
- Russet Burbank — Classic long baker with russet skin; stores well; popular in AU/NZ.
- Nadine — Early maturing with smooth white skin; great for boiling and salads.
- Desiree — Red-skinned all-rounder; excellent for roasting and mashing.
- Royal Blue — Purple-fleshed variety with high antioxidant content; good for baking.
- Dutch Cream — Buttery yellow flesh, ideal for creamy mash and roasting.
Soil Preparation
Prefers well-drained, loose, slightly acidic soil (pH 5.0–6.0). Incorporate well-rotted compost before planting to improve structure and fertility. Avoid heavy clay or compacted soils; use raised beds if drainage is poor.
Growing Guide
Plant seed potatoes 10–15 cm deep, 30 cm apart in rows 70–90 cm apart. Hill soil around stems when plants are 20 cm tall and again every 2–3 weeks to encourage more tubers and prevent greening. Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. In cool and temperate zones, plant after the last frost; in subtropical and Mediterranean zones, plant in autumn for a winter/spring crop.
Care
Apply a balanced fertiliser (e.g., 5-10-10) at planting and again when plants reach 20 cm tall. Maintain hilling every 2–3 weeks; do not prune. Remove any green tubers immediately to prevent solanine poisoning.
Companion Planting
Plant potatoes with bush beans, sweet corn, horseradish, and marigolds to deter pests. Avoid planting near tomatoes, capsicum, eggplant, and other solanums to reduce disease risk. Also avoid cucumbers and pumpkins as they compete for nutrients.
Common Pests & Risks
Potato moth larvae tunnel into tubers; control with deep hilling and crop rotation. Aphids spread viruses; encourage beneficial insects or use insecticidal soap. Late blight causes brown leaf spots and rotten tubers; avoid overhead watering and remove infected plants promptly.
Harvesting
For new potatoes, gently dig around plants about 2–3 weeks after flowering. For maincrop, wait until the foliage yellows and dies back, then harvest in dry weather. Cure in a cool, dark, ventilated place before storing.
In the Kitchen
Potatoes are endlessly versatile: boil, roast, mash, or fry. Store in a cool, dark, dry place to prevent sprouting. New potatoes are best eaten soon after harvest; maincrop varieties can store for months if cured properly.
Troubleshooting
Yellow leaves: may indicate nutrient deficiency or early blight; apply balanced fertiliser and remove affected leaves. Holes in tubers: caused by potato moth larvae; hill soil deeply and rotate crops. Brown leaf spots: often late blight; remove infected plants, avoid overhead watering. Small tubers: result from dry periods or overcrowding; maintain consistent moisture and proper spacing. Green skin: tuber exposed to light; hill soil and store in complete darkness.