How to grow redcurrant
Overview
Redcurrant (Ribes rubrum) is a deciduous fruiting shrub grown for its bright, tart berries that hang in clusters. It is a cool-climate plant that requires winter chill to set fruit and performs best in regions with cold winters and mild summers.
Varieties
- Red Lake — A popular heavy-cropping variety with large, bright red berries and good disease resistance in cool climates.
- Jonkheer van Tets — An early-ripening Dutch variety known for its long trusses and excellent flavour, widely grown in New Zealand.
- Rovada — A late-season variety with high yields and good frost tolerance, ideal for cooler Australian regions.
Soil Preparation
Redcurrant prefers deep, loamy soil with good drainage and a pH of 6.0–6.5. Before planting, dig in 2–3 kg of well-rotted manure or compost per square metre. Avoid heavy clay or waterlogged sites; improve drainage with raised beds if needed.
Growing Guide
Plant redcurrant in full sun with well-drained, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0–6.5). Space bushes 1.2–1.5 m apart in rows 1.8 m apart. Set the crown 5 cm below the soil surface to encourage new basal shoots. Water deeply during dry spells, especially in spring when fruit is forming. Mulch with straw or wood chips to keep roots cool and moist.
Care
Feed redcurrant with a balanced fertiliser (e.g., 10-10-10) in early spring and again after harvest. Prune in winter: remove old, unproductive wood (3+ years) to ground level, leaving 6–8 strong young canes. Mulch annually with compost or aged manure to maintain soil fertility.
Companion Planting
Plant redcurrant near chives, garlic, or nasturtiums to deter aphids. Avoid planting near blackcurrants or gooseberries to reduce shared pest and disease pressure. Do not plant under walnut trees, as juglone inhibits growth.
Common Pests & Risks
Aphids: control with strong water spray or insecticidal soap. Powdery mildew: ensure good air circulation and prune out affected wood. Birds: netting is essential as birds strip ripe berries quickly. Currant blister aphid: causes leaf distortion; tolerate if minor, or remove infested leaves.
Harvesting
Harvest redcurrants when the berries are fully coloured (translucent red) and still firm, usually 4–6 weeks after flowering. Pick the whole string (truss) by cutting with scissors, not individual berries. Berries do not all ripen at once, so pick over several weeks.
In the Kitchen
Redcurrants are excellent for jams, jellies, and sauces, as their high pectin content sets well. Freeze whole trusses for later use, or dry them for a tart addition to muesli. The berries also pair well with lamb or game in savoury dishes.
Troubleshooting
Yellow leaves: often due to iron deficiency in alkaline soil; apply chelated iron. Brown leaf edges: caused by wind scorch or salt stress; shelter plants or improve irrigation. Poor fruit set: lack of winter chill or insufficient pollination; ensure at least 6 weeks of cold. Mildew on leaves: reduce humidity by pruning for airflow and apply sulfur spray. Birds eating fruit: netting is essential; delay netting until fruit colours to avoid trapping beneficial insects.