How to grow taro
Overview
Taro is a tropical corm crop grown for its starch-rich underground corms, a staple in many cuisines. It demands consistently warm, wet conditions and rich soil to yield well. Growers should ensure at least 6 months of frost-free warmth for a reliable harvest.
Varieties
- Bun Long — A popular Chinese variety with large, cylindrical corms and excellent yield in Australian subtropical gardens.
- Dasheen — The classic taro grown in the Pacific; produces large, starchy corms suitable for poi and chips.
- Eddoe — A smaller, more compact variety (Colocasia esculenta var. antiquorum) with good frost tolerance relative to others.
Soil Preparation
Taro prefers rich, loamy soil with a pH between 5.5 and 7.0. Incorporate plenty of well-rotted compost or manure before planting to improve fertility and moisture retention. Ensure good drainage to prevent waterlogging, but the soil must stay constantly moist.
Growing Guide
Plant taro corms in spring after all frost risk has passed, in full sun or part shade. Set corms 5–10 cm deep in mounds or trenches spaced 60–90 cm apart. Keep soil consistently moist, watering daily in hot, dry weather. For best yields, maintain a warm, humid environment and avoid letting the soil dry out.
Care
Feed taro with a potassium-rich fertiliser every 4–6 weeks during the growing season. Remove yellowing or spent leaves to improve airflow and reduce disease risk. Mulch heavily with organic matter to retain soil moisture and suppress weeds.
Companion Planting
Taro grows well alongside sweet potato, ginger, and tumeric, which share similar moisture and warmth needs. Avoid planting with brassicas or tomatoes, as they require drier conditions and compete poorly.
Common Pests & Risks
Common pests include aphids (control with neem oil or insecticidal soap) and root rots caused by Pythium or Phytophthora (improve drainage and avoid overwatering). Caterpillars may also attack leaves; handpick or use Bt spray if severe.
Harvesting
Harvest taro corms when the lower leaves turn yellow and die back, usually 6–12 months after planting. Carefully dig around the plant to lift corms without damage. Cook corms thoroughly before eating, as raw taro contains irritating calcium oxalate crystals.
In the Kitchen
All parts of the taro plant must be cooked to break down calcium oxalate crystals. The corms can be boiled, steamed, roasted or fried; leaves are used like spinach if boiled well. Store harvested corms in a cool, dark place for up to 3 months.
Troubleshooting
Yellow leaves: often from overwatering or nutrient deficiency; check drainage and apply balanced fertiliser. Brown leaf edges: usually wind stress or underwatering; provide shelter and consistent moisture. Stunted growth: cold temperatures or poor soil; wait for warm weather and enrich soil. Small corms: overcrowding or insufficient water; space plants properly and never let soil dry out. Rotting corms: waterlogged soil or fungal disease; plant in raised beds with good drainage.