How to grow tomato
Overview
Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) is a warm-season vegetable grown for its versatile fruit. It requires full sun, consistent moisture, and regular feeding to produce a heavy summer crop. Growers must protect young plants from frost and provide support for indeterminate varieties.
Varieties
- Grosse Lisse — A popular slicing tomato with large, round red fruit; reliable in temperate and subtropical gardens.
- Roma — An oblong paste tomato with few seeds, ideal for sauces and preserving; hardy and prolific.
- Tommy Toe — A sweet cherry tomato that sets fruit well in hot weather; a classic Australian heirloom.
- Mortgage Lifter — A beefsteak variety producing huge, meaty fruit; requires staking and attention to calcium to avoid blossom end rot.
- Tiny Tim — A compact dwarf variety perfect for pots and small spaces; produces cherry-sized fruit early.
- Yellow Pear — An heirloom cherry tomato with small pear-shaped yellow fruit; adds colour to salads and is very productive.
Soil Preparation
Tomatoes prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.0–6.8) that is rich in organic matter and well-drained. Incorporate plenty of well-rotted compost before planting and avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers that promote leafy growth at the expense of fruit. Good drainage is essential to prevent root rot.
Growing Guide
Plant tomatoes after the last frost in a position with at least 6–8 hours of full sun. Space determinate types 60 cm apart and indeterminates 90 cm apart, staking or caging each plant. Water at soil level to avoid leaf diseases and apply a thick organic mulch to retain moisture. Remove lower leaves as plants grow to improve airflow and reduce soil splash.
Sowing
Sow seeds 6 mm deep in seed trays or direct into the garden after all frost risk. Germination takes 7–14 days at 20–30°C. Transplant seedlings when they have 4–6 true leaves, spacing 60–90 cm apart. In cooler zones, start seeds indoors 6–8 weeks before the last frost.
Care
Feed every 2–3 weeks with a balanced liquid fertiliser once flowering begins, switching to a low-nitrogen formula to favour fruit over foliage. Remove suckers on indeterminate varieties by pinching off shoots that emerge between the main stem and a leaf branch. Mulch well and rotate crops annually to reduce disease buildup.
Companion Planting
Basil improves flavour and detests pests; marigold repels nematodes and whitefly; parsley attracts beneficial insects. Avoid planting with fennel (inhibits growth) or potatoes (shared blight risk).
Common Pests & Risks
Common pests include tomato moth, whitefly, aphids, fruit fly, and caterpillars. Use neem oil or insecticidal soap for aphids and whitefly, and set pheromone traps for fruit fly. Good airflow and regular removal of affected leaves help prevent fungal diseases such as early blight.
Harvesting
Pick tomatoes when fully coloured and slightly soft to the touch, typically 60–85 days after transplanting depending on variety. Harvest regularly to encourage continued production; fruit can be ripened indoors if picked at the first blush of colour.
In the Kitchen
Tomatoes are used fresh in salads, sandwiches, and salsas, or cooked into sauces, soups, and passata. Store at room temperature away from direct sunlight; refrigeration dulls flavour. They can be dried, frozen, or bottled for long-term use.
Troubleshooting
Blossom end rot: brown sunken patch on the bottom; caused by calcium deficiency and uneven watering – maintain steady moisture and add calcium. Yellow leaves: usually overwatering or nitrogen deficiency – check soil moisture and apply balanced feed. Leaf curl: heat stress or aphid damage; provide shade during heatwaves and control aphids. Fruit splitting: inconsistent watering – mulch and water regularly. Whiteflies: yellowing leaves with sticky honeydew; use reflective mulch or insecticidal soap.